Paul Hobbs Chardonnay "George Menini Estate" 2023
(Russian River Valley, California) - [JS 97] [WS 94] [VM 94]

About the vineyard:

Cool breezes and morning fog characterize the climate of the George Menini Estate Vineyard, which lies within the Sebastopol Hills zone of the southwestern Russian River Valley. Ideal for cultivating premium Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Paul Hobbs acquired this estate in 2012 and named it for the beloved former proprietor and apple farmer George Menini. 

Four elongated, convex rolling hills with slopes up to 15 percent, planted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (Hyde wente, Hudson wente, 548, Montrachet, 72, Mt. Eden) on Goldridge sandy loam. Cane pruned, vertical shoot positioned (vsp). 

Hand-harvested at night with shears only, the grapes are whole-cluster pressed while still cold from the field. The juice is barrel-fermented with indigenous yeasts, which typically takes 6 months to complete. Spontaneous malolactic fermentation occurs, then aged sur lies with bi-weekly bâtonnage. The wine is aged 15months in French oak barrels; 30% new, from select coopers: Leroi, Taransaud, Billon, Louis Latour. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 

Growing Season

If the ’23 growing season could be defined by one element, it would be water. After several years of drought, we recalibrated our expectations and practices to adapt to abundant rain. Years like this remind us why it is important to stay nimble and open to change. We embraced what nature gave us—and garnered a standout vintage. Atmospheric rivers (long bands of atmosphere in the air that can resemble and carry as much water as the namesake body of water) in the winter, particularly January and March refilled rivers and lakes to capacity and replenished aquifers, ensuring a full water soil profile to begin the growing season. Wet and cool conditions, especially in March through early April, delayed bud break by several weeks. Lower than average temperatures and more rainfall prevailed in May and bloom appeared later compared to previous vintages. Fruit set was remarkably strong overall. July rebounded with warmer temperatures and veraison kicked off in earnest. August temperatures were below normal and foggy, wet conditions led to rapid growth of cluster and berry size. To counteract the weight and ensure good phenolic concentration in the fruit, we performed additional crop thinning in many estate blocks. Like every other stage of the growing season, harvest commenced weeks behind previous years. We began picking on September 20— the latest start in over a decade for Paul Hobbs Winery. All in all, 2023 was not just quantitatively notable, but qualitative as well, providing beautiful and balanced fruit creating wines with structure, length and elegance.

Tasting Notes

A chlorophyllic rim frames this luminous, pale straw-tinted wine. Enticing aromas of Golden Delicious apple, ripe kiwi, and fresh peach unfold gracefully with each swirl. On the palate, the wine is succulent and elevated, revealing layers of bright lemon, crisp pear, and subtle lemongrass. Its scintillating energy dances across the palate, culminating in a lingering, sophisticated finish. 

Ratings & Reviews

97 Points - Wine Advocate:
"Bold fruit flavors are backed by great acidity in this full-bodied but super well-balanced wine. Poached pears, golden apples, quince, kiwis and subtle toasted oak. With 6.5 grams per liter acidity, the texture is bracing and vivid, pulling the flavors along for a lingering finish. Drink now or hold." (Jan 2025)

94 Points - Wine Spectator: 
"Complex and delicious, highlighting the fresh peach, apricot and pineapple flavors up front, plus notes of honey, buttery shortbread, salted caramel and grilled lemon. Lemon verbena, vetiver and nutmeg details grow on the finish, where all of the flavors gain extra momentum. Drink now through 2037. 750 cases made." MW (May 2025)

94 Points - Vinous: 
"The 2023 Chardonnay George Menini Estate is laced with white pear, jasmine, mint and white pepper, all of which add aromatic brightness. This cold, late-ripening site in the Sebastopol Hills yields Chardonnays of tension and minerality, qualities that are very much on display here." AG (Dec 2024)