Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2022
(Southern Rhone, France) - [WS 95, #15 of '25] [DM 95] [JS 94] [JD 93-95+] [VM 93]

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About this Wine:
The domain Vieux Donjon was founded by the father of Lucien Michel, Marcel Michel, who did the first bottling at his domain in 1966. Beginning in 1979 Marie José and Lucien Michel began to run the property. The next generation Claire Michel joined in 2008 and her brother Francois joined in 2013 - all wines are now made by them.  The domain covers 14 ha of Chateauneuf du Pape, one of them with white varieties. The vinification process is in the best sense of the word traditional. Only one cuvée of red and of white Chateauneuf du Pape is made. The cuvee rouge consists of 75% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre and 5% Cinsault. Aged for 6 months in cement tank and then about 12 months in foudres. If there is a picture to epitomize Chateauneuf du Pape, it is of huge, gnarled vines rising from a mound of large smooth stones. And if one estate epitomizes these vieux ceps and cailloux, then surely it is the small domain of Lucien and Marie-José Michel. Their oldest vines exceed eighty years and are so lodged in heavy stones that it takes a special tractor to work the “soil”. Those old vines, together with late harvesting, make for quite low yields and that makes for wonderfully concentrated vinous raw material which the Michels guide through a very traditional Chateauneuf cellar upbringing. The mix of grapes, too, is quite traditional, leaning overwhelmingly on Grenache. However, Michels harvest their grapes parcel by parcel, according to strict standards of ripeness (tasting!), rather than by grape variety. Vines of three sorts are mixed together.

Seldom blockbuster wines in their youth, but always well-defined and shapely so that they may be enjoyed right away, Vieux Donjon Chateauneufs nevertheless age slowly and magnificently. Yet, the estate is so small and modest that, when they assembled a vertical collection for Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar in Spring of 1995, there were numerous holes. Apparently, not only do the Michels not keep any prisoners in the dungeon (“Donjon” - which was apparently just Lucien’s take on what remains of the Popes’ new summer castle seen on the label) but they don’t keep many bottles of their own wine in their cellar!

Ratings & Reviews

95 Points & #15 Top 100 of '25 - Wine Spectator:
"An excellent example of classic Châteauneuf richness that shows good balance and energy. Juicy black raspberry, licorice and ganache are wrapped around a ballast of graphite shavings, while the refined structure reins in the warm, mouthcoating palate. Hints of grilled herbs, brown bread and lavender smoke detail the long, textured and mineral-rich finish. Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault. Best from 2026 through 2038. 5,000 cases made, 1,200 cases imported." - Kristen Bieler (Mar 2025)

95 Points - Decanter Magazine:
"Enjoyably fresh and fluid style, good acidity, with lip-smacking raspberry and strawberry fruit. Good feeling of lift and drinkability considering the extreme vintage conditions. Elegant, fine tannins. Fermented in concrete vats, then aged in concrete and old foudres. (Drink between 2024-2032)" - Matt Walls (Sep 2023)

94 Points - James Suckling:
"A well-crafted, balanced and refined red. This has notes of sweet cherries, dried herbs, red berries and mild spices. Medium- to full-bodied with fine yet firm tannins. Juicier at the center with a solid frame of tannins coating the palate at this stage. Bright fruit with plenty of vitality in the long, peppery finish. Try after 2026." (Apr 2024)

93 - 95+ Points - Jeb Dunnuck:
"As to the red from this great estate, the 2022 Châteauneuf Du Pape checks in as a classic blend of 75% Grenache and the rest Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Cinsault that raised in concrete and foudre. It shows the perfumed, ripe, yet also elegant style of the vintage and has beautiful red and black fruit, some classic Provençal, spicy, garrigue nuances, medium to full body, a great mid-palate, and ripe tannins. It's going to a forward, approachable Vieux Donjon that will also evolve for 10-15 years if well stored." (Oct 2023)

93 Points - Vinous Media: 
"As is custom at this address, the 2022 Châteauneuf-du-Pape spent one year in old oak foudres. Neatly blending 75% Grenache with 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah and 5% Cinsault, it unwinds with notes of violet, forest strawberry, licorice, black cherry and graphite. Open-knit and inviting, the 2022 is gently framed by ripe tannins that won’t need as much time to mellow as in 2020 or 2019. Finishing on a savory note, this expressive Châteauneuf smoothly integrates its 15.25% alcohol and comes highly recommended. (Drink between 2027-2042)" - Nicolas Greinacher (Jun 2024)