Jean-Phillipe Fichet Bourgogne Blanc 2022
(Burgundy, France)
Regular price $50.00 Sale price $44.97 Save $5.03
About the Winery:
More than many of his peers, Jean-Philippe Fichet works to test the limits of transparency, exploring the very soul of Meursault terroirs. If Burgundy is a terroir-lovers haven, it was in fact Meursault’s destiny to have its soils revealed in this way: their intense stoniness is magnified by an exceptionally low water table that forces the roots of the vines deep underground to reveal the depths and mysteries that lie underneath that make these wines so unique.
The story of Meursault is also about terroir specificity. In the 1980's, René Lafon, of Domaine Comtes-Lafon, created a breakthrough by bottling his Meursault "Clos de la Barre" on its own. For a century before, such a thing had been unheard of, as only the most famous vineyards, the premier crus, were ever bottled individually. Everything else was blended into Meursault Villages. Today, especially in Meursault, but also in other villages, producers make wines from single-parcels of Villages-level vineyards, or so-called lieux-dits. Jean-Phillipe Fichet was an early practitioner of this philosophy, and even if uneconomical, he would rather produce a very small amount of wine from his best sites than to lose their unique character in a blend.
Although Fichet owns almost no vines, he has utilized long-term férmage and metayage agreements to assemble an enviable vineyard line-up - most in relatively old vines in top Meursault lieux-dits. His tireless work has brought well-earned attention to the honorable terroirs of Gruyaches, Tesson and Chevalières. In the vineyards, Fichet is fastidious and uncompromising. So much so that it is often impossible to get an appointment to visit unless it is at the end of the day, since Jean-Philippe is usually in his vines from daybreak until sunset every day, even in the off-season! in fact, he believes in severe winter pruning rather than green harvesting.
While the "minerality" of Meursault is its calling card, Fichet feels that FRUIT should never be an afterthought. While it has become somewhat of a trend in the Côte de Beaune to pick quite early in search of acidic cut, he is also not afraid of ripeness and believes it to be essential to achieving balance. In his opinion, lean, underripe wines do not do justice to the indiviudual terroirs. In explaining his views on physiological ripeness, Fichet is looking for that "optimum moment" when all the components are in perfect harmony.
About The Wine:
Varietals: 100% Chardonnay
Vineyard From six parcels in the village of Meursault
Soil Varied clay-limestone
Viticulture Lutte-raisonnee. Jean-Philippe eschews chemical fertilizers, herbicides or pesticides.
Vinification Grapes are hand-harvested. Fermentations with malo in barrel and stainless steel tanks. Batonnage is limited depending on the health of the lees and the nature of the vintage.
Aging 12+ months in barrel (very little new), plus 3-6 months in tank
Ratings & Reviews
Allen Meadows' BurgHound:
"A discreet but not invisible application of wood sets off cool and relatively high-toned aromas of lemongrass and pear nuances. The delicious and vibrant flavors possess a lovely texture while exhibiting solid length on the balanced, dry and refreshing finish that is supported by citrus-tinged acidity. Good stuff for its level and worth a look." (Jun 2024)
Jasper Morris' Inside Burgundy:
"Pale lemon, very light and indeed attractive reduction. White fruit, fattens out a little on the palate, harmonious, just enough acidity. Very pretty fruit reappears to finish. Drink from 2025-2028." (Oct 2023)