Mabon
(Hourglass) Rossi Ranch GSM Blend 2023
(Sonoma Valley, California) - [WA 94] [VM 94] [JD 94] [DM 94]

About the Winery:
Hourglass is a family-owned boutique estate in Napa Valley founded by Jeff Smith on property purchased by Jeff’s father in 1976. Their first vintage was 1997 with Bob Foley, a family friend and maker of Pride Mountain, Switchback Ridge, and Paloma, serving as winemaker. Foley was followed by Tony Biagi, of PlumpJack and Cade fame.

Mabon is a passion project for Jeff, his wife Carolyn, and winemaker Tony Biagi, who are ardent admirers of Rhône Valley wines. They have long believed the wines of yesteryear California resembled the make-up of the famous blends of the Rhône. Mabon is the creative outlet for all to explore these varietals, styles, and the heritage vineyards of California. Their stellar reputation in California and trusted relationships with growers throughout the state laid the path for Tony and Adrien Halpin (Assistant Winemaker at Hourglass) to gain access to numerous historic vineyards for the Mabon wines.

About this Wine:
Made from 80% Grenache, 18% Mourvedre and 2% Syrah from the historic Rossi Ranch in Sonoma, the wine is made with native yeast, 25% whole cluster fermented and aged 16 months in 33% new and 67% seasoned French oak. Rossi Ranch is considered one of the marquee Rhone varietal vineyards in California; it is farmed by Phil Coturri, an early pioneer in organic viticulture.

Tasting Notes:
The 2023 vintage of this GSM blend is defined by the vibrancy of old vine Grenache, complemented by Mourvedre and Syrah, with 25% whole cluster fermentation adding aromatic lift and structure. The nose unfolds with perfumed violets, blue fruit, and rhubarb, intertwined with warming Christmas spice. On the palate, the wine reflects the sun0soaked intensity of its origins, showing a firmer tannic structure and heightened tension. Layers of dark fruit, savory spice, and bitter chocolate evolve with each sip, creating a complex and dynamic profile. The nuanced oak influence lends finesse while allowing the wine's natural energy to shine. This vintage showcases both power and elegance, embodying the distinctive character of its California terroir while nodding to the Old World.

Ratings & Reviews

94 Points - Wine Advocate: 
“Mabon's 2023 Red Wine ratchets up the Grenache content to 80%, with 18% Mourvèdre and 2% Syrah. Approximately one-fourth of the Grenache was vinified as whole clusters. Strawberries and cherries dominate, with just a bit of herb nuance on the nose, while the palate is medium- to full-bodied, with a supple, silky feel and a long, tannic, licorice-tinged finish.” – Joe Czerwinski (Jun 2025)

94 Points - Vinous Media: 
“The 2023 GSM Rossi Ranch is silky, elegant and quite floral. Crushed flowers, mint, orange peel and ripe red-toned fruit all grace this nuanced, layered Grenache. Rossi Ranch is one of the most distinguished properties in Sonoma County. All of that pedigree comes through here.” – Antonio Galloni (Nov 2025)

94 Points - Jeb Dunnuck: 
“Based on 80% Grenache, 18% Mourvèdre, and 2% Syrah from Rossi Ranch in Sonoma Valley, the 2023 GSM was fermented with 25% whole cluster and aged 16 months in 33% new French oak. It has a Mourvèdre-driven nose of red and black fruits, game, bouquet garni, and spicy nuances, and it's medium-bodied with a pure, layered, elegant mouthfeel, fine tannins, and a great finish. It has building structure as well as terrific overall balance. It would give a classic Châteauneuf-du-Pape a solid run for its money! There are roughly 247 cases produced. Drink 2025-2035.” (Dec 2025)

94 Points - Decanter Magazine: 
“Expressive, bright, pure notes of raspberry and strawberry are layered with subtle vanilla and elegant cedarwood spice. Bright red-soil earth and lifted mineral tones appear above a soft core of silky tannins, and the palate is given a touch of umami richness from Mourvèdre, tempering the juicy, sumptuous fruit of the Grenache. The finish is lifted by bright white pepper spice from the Syrah. Aged 16 months in Burgundian French oak, it was sourced from St. Helena's Rossi Ranch Vineyard: an historic, dry-farmed site best known for old-vine Zinfandel and mixed black varieties planted on gravelly alluvial soils.” – Jonathan Cristaldi (Jan 2026)