Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo "Tre Tine" DOCG 2017
(Piedmont, Italy) - [DM 96] [VM 95] [WS 94] [WA 94]
Regular price $460.00 Sale price $397.97 Save $62.03
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About the Winemaker:
Giuseppe Rinaldi has a unique way of seeing the world and a presence that makes a lasting impression. An overarching respect for tradition and a fascination with history seem to drive his thoughts and, in turn, his wines. Beppe’s personal history goes back five generations to the late 19th century, when his family and so many others sold the fruit of their vineyards to the Falletti family. The first Rinaldi winery (which is still running today under Luciano Rinaldi) was acquired in 1870 from the Falletti’s estate manager, but in the 1920s Giuseppe Rinaldi, grandfather of the current owner, established his own estate with vineyards in Barolo’s best sites: Cannubi, Brunate, Le Coste, and Ravera. Giuseppe’s son Battista later took over the winery and developed their cellar techniques to boost quality; when he passed away in 1992 his son, also named Giuseppe, left his career as a veterinarian to carry on the family work.
When discussing Barolo, Beppe can’t help but wax poetic about past generations of local winemakers. Tradition is a constant theme in his thoughts, and he mourns the special connection with the land that he believes has been eradicated by technology. Living more slowly and closer to the land than is possible now begot contemplation and more penetrating observation. The ideas and insights that came to the forefathers of Barolo in this manner forged routines in the vineyard, and cellar work, too, was merely an extension of their communal wisdom.
As a traditional – although certainly not conventional – winemaker, Beppe sees blends as the ultimate expression of Barolo. Every vineyard site, he points out, will have shortcomings, especially in vintages that mesh less well with the character of the land. Past generations loved the creativity and individuality of blends, and even their “cru” labeled wines were often laced with non-cru fruit in order to enhance the still apparent vineyard character. Rinaldi is happiest in the vineyard, close to nature; he will tell you that cellar work is an uncomplicated process that requires no degree or wit, but simply patient attention. His techniques are not precisely calculated, but rather follow tradition and instinct, as with his continued use of large wood vats for fermentation: he muses that stainless steel could be better but finds old wood more pleasurable, and the results are unimpeachable. Each bottle of Barolo is also given more breadth and acidity through a ripasso in which Barbera skins are added to the Nebbiolo must, a practice that Giuseppe explains is (and always has been) common but which is never spoken of today. His Barolos are made for long aging, so much so that his dream is that they should never be ready to drink.
Ratings & Reviews
96 Points - Decanter Magazine:
"This is the last vintage produced by Beppe Rinaldi. I personally prefer the estate's Brunate most of the time but in 2017, Tre Tine seems to express more concentration. The wine shows vibrant red berry and plum fruits alongside a citrus, almost herbal, freshness. It's not really poised at present, with assertive acidity and firm, muscular tannins that are chewy rather than hard. Its fierce character is balanced by plenty of fruit concentration. Released in spring 2021, I would drink it from October onwards." - Aldo Fiordelli (Mar 2021)
Giuseppe Rinaldi has a unique way of seeing the world and a presence that makes a lasting impression. An overarching respect for tradition and a fascination with history seem to drive his thoughts and, in turn, his wines. Beppe’s personal history goes back five generations to the late 19th century, when his family and so many others sold the fruit of their vineyards to the Falletti family. The first Rinaldi winery (which is still running today under Luciano Rinaldi) was acquired in 1870 from the Falletti’s estate manager, but in the 1920s Giuseppe Rinaldi, grandfather of the current owner, established his own estate with vineyards in Barolo’s best sites: Cannubi, Brunate, Le Coste, and Ravera. Giuseppe’s son Battista later took over the winery and developed their cellar techniques to boost quality; when he passed away in 1992 his son, also named Giuseppe, left his career as a veterinarian to carry on the family work.
When discussing Barolo, Beppe can’t help but wax poetic about past generations of local winemakers. Tradition is a constant theme in his thoughts, and he mourns the special connection with the land that he believes has been eradicated by technology. Living more slowly and closer to the land than is possible now begot contemplation and more penetrating observation. The ideas and insights that came to the forefathers of Barolo in this manner forged routines in the vineyard, and cellar work, too, was merely an extension of their communal wisdom.
As a traditional – although certainly not conventional – winemaker, Beppe sees blends as the ultimate expression of Barolo. Every vineyard site, he points out, will have shortcomings, especially in vintages that mesh less well with the character of the land. Past generations loved the creativity and individuality of blends, and even their “cru” labeled wines were often laced with non-cru fruit in order to enhance the still apparent vineyard character. Rinaldi is happiest in the vineyard, close to nature; he will tell you that cellar work is an uncomplicated process that requires no degree or wit, but simply patient attention. His techniques are not precisely calculated, but rather follow tradition and instinct, as with his continued use of large wood vats for fermentation: he muses that stainless steel could be better but finds old wood more pleasurable, and the results are unimpeachable. Each bottle of Barolo is also given more breadth and acidity through a ripasso in which Barbera skins are added to the Nebbiolo must, a practice that Giuseppe explains is (and always has been) common but which is never spoken of today. His Barolos are made for long aging, so much so that his dream is that they should never be ready to drink.
Ratings & Reviews
96 Points - Decanter Magazine:"This is the last vintage produced by Beppe Rinaldi. I personally prefer the estate's Brunate most of the time but in 2017, Tre Tine seems to express more concentration. The wine shows vibrant red berry and plum fruits alongside a citrus, almost herbal, freshness. It's not really poised at present, with assertive acidity and firm, muscular tannins that are chewy rather than hard. Its fierce character is balanced by plenty of fruit concentration. Released in spring 2021, I would drink it from October onwards." - Aldo Fiordelli (Mar 2021)
95 Points - Vinous Media:
"The 2017 Barolo Tre Tine is fabulous. A wine that marries classicism with the racy personality of the year, the 2017 hits all the right buttons. It's a wine that satisfies all the senses, with more than enough to please both the hedonistic and intellectual senses. Everything about the 2017 is spot on. Bright red berry fruit, rose petal, mint, lavender and spice build into the delineated, salivating finish. As always, the Tre Tine is a bit more linear than the Brunate. In 2017, it is one of the wines of the vintage. Don't miss it." - Antonio Galloni (Feb 2021)
94 Points - Wine Spectator:
" This is racy and elegant, despite the tightly wound, firm tannins boasting floral and red berry aromas and flavors, with accents of mineral and leafy underbrush. Shows fine harmony overall, with the essence of fruit returning on the finish. Best from 2025 through 2042. 550 cases made, 100 cases imported." - BS (web only 2021)
94 Points - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate:
"The Giuseppe Rinaldi 2017 Barolo Tre Tine was bottled in September 2020, and Carlotta Rinaldi tells me that the wine has gone through various moments of openness and shyness since then. The wine was a little closed when I tasted it this past summer, but its evolution is far from over. As you contemplate the bouquet, you sense lots of fruit, yet there is no excessive ripeness like you might expect from this hot and dry vintage. It shows elegant fruit weight, streamlined and silky, with dried violet, spice and rusty nail. It carries a medium texture that is elongated by the wine's integrated tannins and acidity. Tre Tine is a blend of fruit from Ravera, Le Coste and Cannubi San Lorenzo, and these latter two vineyards were harvested especially early in this vintage, starting on September 13, 2017, which is unusual for Nebbiolo." - Monica Larner (Sep 2021)
"The 2017 Barolo Tre Tine is fabulous. A wine that marries classicism with the racy personality of the year, the 2017 hits all the right buttons. It's a wine that satisfies all the senses, with more than enough to please both the hedonistic and intellectual senses. Everything about the 2017 is spot on. Bright red berry fruit, rose petal, mint, lavender and spice build into the delineated, salivating finish. As always, the Tre Tine is a bit more linear than the Brunate. In 2017, it is one of the wines of the vintage. Don't miss it." - Antonio Galloni (Feb 2021)
94 Points - Wine Spectator:
" This is racy and elegant, despite the tightly wound, firm tannins boasting floral and red berry aromas and flavors, with accents of mineral and leafy underbrush. Shows fine harmony overall, with the essence of fruit returning on the finish. Best from 2025 through 2042. 550 cases made, 100 cases imported." - BS (web only 2021)
94 Points - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate:
"The Giuseppe Rinaldi 2017 Barolo Tre Tine was bottled in September 2020, and Carlotta Rinaldi tells me that the wine has gone through various moments of openness and shyness since then. The wine was a little closed when I tasted it this past summer, but its evolution is far from over. As you contemplate the bouquet, you sense lots of fruit, yet there is no excessive ripeness like you might expect from this hot and dry vintage. It shows elegant fruit weight, streamlined and silky, with dried violet, spice and rusty nail. It carries a medium texture that is elongated by the wine's integrated tannins and acidity. Tre Tine is a blend of fruit from Ravera, Le Coste and Cannubi San Lorenzo, and these latter two vineyards were harvested especially early in this vintage, starting on September 13, 2017, which is unusual for Nebbiolo." - Monica Larner (Sep 2021)