Domaine William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru "Bougros" 2023
(Burgundy, France) - [VM 91-93] [JM 91-93] [BH 92]

About the Winemaker:

William Fèvre declared his first vintage in 1959, marking the birth of the domaine and a pivotal moment in the production of quality-focused Chablis. Garnering over 250 years of family experience working the land in this region, Fèvre established himself as a winemaker with a modest seven hectares of vineyards. Slowly and methodically, the domaine acquired new vineyard sites in Chablis over the years, all situated in historic terroirs. At the same time, it became synonymous with technological advancement and led the charge of environmental stewardship, embracing organic viticulture since 2000 (certification commencing from the 2023 vintage), and biodynamic practices initiated in 2010 across 32 hectares.

The vineyards boast an impressive average vine age ranging from 30 to 60 years, with some dating back to the 1940s. Aging of the crus takes place for 13 to 14 months, with 40 to 50% of the harvest spending 5 to 6 months on fine lees in French oak barrels, without new oak.

Today, Domaine William Fèvre is not only one of the most influential landowners in Chablis — possessing an impressive 70 hectares of vineyards (all vinified separately) — they also indisputably have the greatest holdings, including 15.9 hectares classified as Premiers Crus and 15.2 as Grand Crus. A new chapter began for the estate in 2024, when it was acquired by Domaines Barons de Rothschild, owned by the esteemed Lafite family.

About this Wine:

Bougros lies on a steep slope at the western foot of the Grand Cru hill. To know Bougros, one must know Fèvre – the domaine tends to 49% of the cru, including 2.11 hectares in the lieu-dit Côtes Bouguerots. It boasts the steepest slope in Chablis, with a gradient approaching 45 degrees, so all work must be done by hand. Most of the vineyard was planted in the 1950s and ‘60s, and its shallow soils naturally restrict yields, making for a more complex wine.

About half of the lot spends a portion of its extended 14- to 15-month elevage on the lees in old French oak barrels (averaging 6 years old), bringing some structure to this pedigreed, powerful wine.

Vineyard: Bougros sits on the western edge of the hill at the foot of the Grand Cru hill. Fèvre’s parcels in the Côtes Bouguerots lie on very steep slopes close to the river. While that proximity increases frost risk, it also maintains freshness during the summers. Shallow soils naturally limit yields and the vineyard is so steep here that it must be worked entirely by hand as tractors would be dangerous to use.

Tasting Notes:

A powerful and dense structure with pleasant roundness contains a complex, mineral wine.

Food Pairings:
Grilled seafood or chicken in a cream sauce. And, as always, oysters.

Ratings & Reviews

91-93 Points - Vinous Media: 
“The 2023 Chablis Bougros Grand Cru comes from 4 hectares of vines. It has a complex bouquet with lemon thyme, crushed rocks and lime aromas, well-defined and focused. The palate is very composed and steely, a subtle reductive element here, fine weight with an elegant finish. Not the most powerful of the domaine's Grand Cru, but it has panache. (Drink between 2027-2049)" - Neal Martin (Oct 2024)

91-93 Points - Jasper Morris' Inside Burgundy:
“Mid lemon yellow. The bouquet is surprisingly reticent, but suggests body to follow. The 2023 Bougros has retained a fresh white fruit on the palate, plenty of energy behind, nicely balanced because Bougros can be clumsy, with fine length. Drink from 2028-2036.” - JM (June 2024)

92 Points - Allen Meadows' BurgHound:
“A ripe and exuberantly citrus-suffused nose reflects additional notes of mineral reduction, iodine and apple. The sleek, delicious and vibrant medium-bodied flavors display both good focus and power, all wrapped in a lemon-tinged finale. There is a touch of warmth and this does need to develop more depth but overall, this is quite good with fine upside potential. (Drink starting 2031)” - Allen Meadows (Oct 2025)