Domaine Leflaive Puligny Montrachet 2023
(Burgundy, France) - [BH 89-92]

About the Domaine: 
Biodynamic viticulture, coupled with the rare fact that each farm worker is salaried and responsible for a specific piece of the vineyard. This fosters devotion and attention to detail. Vincent Laflaive stresses the two values that are of the essence at the Domaine; “allowing nature to do its work, and maintaining a clinical cleanliness in the equipment used to stock and transport the wine.” The wines are developed in the true Burgundian tradition, spending two winters in the cellar, to ensure that once bottled the wine will “stand on both feet”, a local axiom. The wineries roots, no pun intended, trace back to 1717, making it one of the oldest in Puligny-Montrachet. Their Grand Cru vineyards span Cote de Beaune, totaling 13 acres of vines. They are best known for their whites, which can be attributed to their success during the Judgment of Paris where they took 8th place of the 10 wines awarded. Always a favorite with critics, Domaine Leflaive was praised by James Halliday in 2007 when he noted “it is an enviable position to know that every bottle is sold before it is made.” The sophistication and strong minerality of these wines create great longevity, perfect for the cellar, but hard to find. As Anne-Claude Leflaive points out, ‘I think that in your life, if you really want something, heaven helps you and you find people in front of you to help you.’
And here we are...

Terroir:
There are few places blessed with so much history and such geography.  Since the Middle Ages, Burgundy has produced wine like no other region. The know-how of the monks has passed through the centuries, evangelizing each village with vineyards that have always remained of a human-size. Nowadays, the total Burgundy vineyard covers less than 30,000 ha, barely 4% of French vineyards as a whole.

Burgundy’s wines have acquired a simple and unique reputation: they are the best Chardonnays and Pinots Noirs in the world. Each appellation comes from a specific place, a parcel of vines often of modest size: these famous “Climats” form the basis of the Burgundy model. The diversity of Burgundy’s wines is also found in its 84 appellations, from the grands crus at the top of the pyramid through the premiers crus and the villages to the regional AOCs. More than a classification or a nomenclature, these are names that amateurs dream about: Gevrey-Chambertin, Vougeot, Corton, Meursault... Or even, in the heart of the Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet, where the Leflaive family has been established since 1717.

About the wine:

Coming from 7 different plots all throughout the AOC, the Village wines from Domaine Leflaive are a great representation of the wines of Puligny. The minerality, combined with the unique texture, make this wine stand out from the crowd, leading the way to the greatness of the Premiers and Grands Cru from the family. 

Vintage Notes:
The 2023 vintage was generous in quantity and balanced in quality, following the excellent 2022. A mild, dry winter was followed by a cool, wet spring that helped recharge water reserves. Conditions through mid-June were ideal for flowering. July brought a short heatwave and storms, with no vine damage. August saw wide temperature swings and a final heat spike mid-month, pushing ripeness quickly. Harvest began August 29 with a reduced team to stagger picking based on plot maturity. From September 2, picking accelerated. For the first time, harvests ended at 2 pm to avoid the heat, likely a new norm.

Vinification:
Long, gentle pneumatic pressing, decanting over 24 hours, then racking and running into cask of the must.
Alcoholic fermentation in oak casks, 18% new (maximum 1/2 Vosges, minimum 1/2 Allier).
After 12 months in cask, the wine is aged 6 months in tank where it is prepared for bottling.
Fining and very light filtering if necessary.

89-92 Points Burghound:
"Ripe but cool and airy aromas include those of acacia blossom, citrus confit and crushed fennel. There is fine punch and a notably more sophisticated texture to the medium-bodied flavors that deliver excellent length on the youthfully austere and quite dry finale. This could use more depth so I would suggest allowing this at least a few years of cellar time (Drink starting 2029)." - Allen Meadows  (June 2025)