Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Rouge 2023
(Northern Rhone, France) - [JD 96-98] [DM 97] [VM 94-96]

Notes from the Winemaker:

96-98 Points - Jeb Dunnuck:
 As always, I was able to taste the 2023 Hermitage from multiple parcels, and it's clear this will be another beautiful Hermitage. The Péléat, which comes from sandier soils, is always more finesse-oriented. The Beaume lieu-dit brings more complexity and spice, the L'Ermite more minerality and rose petal nuances, and the Bessards always brings the granitic, graphite, structured core that defines this cuvée. I love the overall purity, elegance, and finesse of the 2023, which is a slight throwback to ripe, yet very classic, mineral-driven examples of Chave's Hermitage. It will offer some early enjoyment given its ripe style, yet the minerality and structure all point to it having ample longevity.

This iconic estate continues to set the standard for both red and white Hermitage, and few tasting experiences compare to time spent with Jean-Louis Chave in the family's cellars in Mauves. Founded in 1481 and passed down through generations, the domaine farms 14.5 hectares on the Hermitage hill, including parcels in Bessards, L'Ermite, Le Méal, Beaume, and Péléat. All the Hermitage parcels are vinified separately using a mix of stainless steel tanks and oak uprights, with élevage in barrel (20-30% new), and the final blend is assembled before bottling. The Hermitage Blanc comes from Rocoules, Les Murets, and l'Ermite, and is based largely on Marsanne from 60- to 100-year-old vines. It sees full malolactic fermentation and is aged on lees in barrel. In addition to the flagship Hermitage, Chave occasionally releases a special Cuvée Cathelin, sourced primarily from Bessards and aged slightly longer in oak. It's only produced in top vintages and in tiny quantities, and good luck finding any! The domaine also produces a rare Hermitage Vin de Paille, made from Marsanne dried on straw mats and aged several years before release. I've only seen this bottling at the estate, but it's a heavenly dessert wine if there ever was one. In Saint Joseph, Chave has now spent over a decade reviving historic hillside vineyards. The estate Saint Joseph comes from granitic sites near Mauves and Tournon, while the Clos Florentin is a single parcel on sandier, south-facing soils. Both are destemmed and aged in oak but show different profiles - the former more classic and mineral-driven, the latter rounder and more elegant. A new cellar was completed in 2014, but the style here remains deeply rooted in tradition. These are benchmark Northern Rhône wines, built for aging and made with clarity, purpose, and precision. It would probably be impossible to have too much Chave in a cellar.

97 Points - Decanter:
A tasting of constituent barrels suggests this will be a particularly approachable and supple vintage of Chave's Hermitage – it is a vintage without great tannic mass or strong acidity, but has deliciously ripe Méal fruit. Very elegant, if fairly low in tannin compared to a typical year, this will drink well young, starting at around 2036 really, but will be approachable, if less rewarding, earlier than that. It will drink before the 2022, and probably not last as long. Undoubtedly a big step up from the 2021, but doesn't quite have the soaring majesty of the 2019 or the 2020.


94-96 Points - Vinous:
 The 2023 L'Hermitage is hauntingly floral at this early stage, with captivating aromatics of rose petal, crushed violet, sour cherry, red plum, cedar and a delicate hint of orange blossom. As usual, Chave showcased individual lieux-dits, with Les Beaumes standing out this year for its lively energy and laser-like precision. That said, the wine’s core pillars, Les Bessards and L’Ermite, are marked by outstanding purity. While the 2023 eventually may not match the concentration or sheer impact of the 2022, it might reveal hidden surprises as it develops further. (Drink between 2028-2042)