Domaine de Montille Le Clos du Chateau Bourgogne Blanc 2022
(Burgundy, France)

About the Domaine:
Domaine de Montille is not only one of the greatest domaines in Burgundy, but one of the greatest domaines in France. With a family heritage that can be traced back to the 17th century and a winemaking heritage rooted in Burgundy since 1750, the de Montilles have become synonymous with their hometown of Volnay. Over the centuries the domaine has seen its fair share of feast and famine. While the original property boasted 12 hectares of vines along the famed Côte d’Or, years of selling off parcels had reduced the family holdings to a mere three hectares. It wasn’t until Hubert de Montille took over in 1947 that the estate started its decades-long path back to glory. Although a trained lawyer like his father, Hubert could not deny his love of wine, so he practiced both professions for almost 50 years. In an era when 90 percent of the region’s crop was being sold off to négociants, Hubert took a stand against the commercially styled wines that were in vogue to make terroir-driven wines instead.

Hubert’s son, Étienne, joined the domaine in 1983, took control of the cellars in 1990, and by 1995, he was co-managing alongside his father. It was that same year that the de Montilles started the slow conversion of the estate to organic farming—a choice which took their old-school “terroirisme” to a whole new level. In 2005, they began implementing biodynamic principles, and in 2012, they earned their official organic certification. In 2006, Hubert’s equally accomplished daughter Alix joined as the winemaker for whites. Gifted businesspeople and vignerons like their father, Étienne and Alix ventured into parallel pastures: in 2003, they also launched Deux Montilles Sœur & Frère, a small négociant, and in 2012, they bought the Château de Puligny-Montrachet which Étienne had been directing since 2001. Throughout their tenure, Hubert and his children have worked hard to expand the family holdings parcel by parcel. Thanks to their efforts, Domaine de Montille now consists of 20 hectares of land in 20 appellations—with a staggering 75% in premier cru and grand cru vineyards throughout the Côte d’Or.

The Vintage:

2022 embraces both quality and generosity, and reveals a vibrant and incredibly seductive profile with crunchy fruitiness. Autumn and winter are mild with temperatures already higher than normal for the season and low rainfall. Temperatures continue to rise as months go by, reaching new heights with no less than four heatwave episodes but thankfully, although rare, the rains are sufficient and the vine keeps growing in the best
possible conditions. The harvest begins in the last week of August. The hot and dry weather help limit the number of treatments to twice, three times less than the year before. The grapes are healthy, impeccable and the desired balance is there thanks to the light showers that fell in mid-August. The aromas of fresh red fruit, the already silky tannins and the incredible energy seal a flamboyant future for this promising and already very accessible vintage. As for the whites, great balance once more, with a fruitiness that is both ripe and deliciously fresh

About the Wine:

The nose is fresh and mineral with notes of citrus, Granny Smith apple, flint, flowers and a touch of beeswax that is found in the mouth with just the right amount of bitterness. A pure and straight wine with more substance and length than the classic white Burgundy

Ratings and Reviews: 

Jancis Robinson:
"Nice tension and lift here. Some ethereal quality that is very welcome. Far from skinny; far from fat. Just right! But not for the long term.” (Jan 2023)