Domaine Chanson Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru "Les Folatieres" 2023
(Burgundy, France) - [JS 94] [JM 91-93]

About the Winery:
Domaine Chanson is one of the great historic producers in Burgundy. Founded in 1750, they are 1 of only 6 producers in the region still remaining from the 18th century and earlier. Most critical to today, Chanson was purchased in 1999 and has been dramatically restored to once again become one of Burgundy’s top estates, best signified in 2017 by 3 of their wines earning “wine of the year” plaudits from the most renowned wine critic in France.

Chanson has extensive holdings of over 111 acres of exclusively Premier and Grand Cru vineyards in the heart of Burgundy. This includes 62 acres of Premier Cru vineyards in the Côte de Beaune, making them one of the leading Premier Cru specialists in the appellation. They produce approximately 17,000 cases of domaine wine per year from their vineyards by farming organically, and harvesting all grapes and vinifying all wines, even for contracted vineyards.

Requiring diligent viticulture and perfect ripeness, they vinify all whites and reds 100% whole cluster at their state of the art facility on the outskirts of Beaune. They use Champagne-style fractional pressing to gently extract the juice, and then age wines in barrel, with no more than 30% new oak for the reds and 20% new oak for the whites.

Aging takes place in the Bastion they own, 1 of the 5 massive towers from the 15th century fortifications that encircle the heart of medieval Beaune. Remarkably, Chanson acquired the Bastion just after the French Revolution. The thickness of the Bastion’s walls (an astonishing 24 feet thick at the base) ensure a constant temperature and level of humidity. The red wines are stored for 18-24 months in oak barrels in the vaulted cellars of the first 3 levels, each one dedicated to a separate vintage. On the 4th level, a huge circular cellar with a gigantic radial structure supported by chestnut beams shelters the white wines during fermentation, vinification and ageing in oak barrels.

Chanson’s wines are defined by lifted and exotic aromas, a supple texture, and rich, dense fruit without heaviness. Chanson is notably obsessed with maintaining top quality across its entire range. The regional and village wines are produced with the same precision and care as the Premier and Grand Crus, and are also artisanal in production. Chanson today occupies a unique position in offering outstanding and authentic wines from a range of both top and up-and-coming terroirs across Burgundy.

About this Wine:
A Chanson “monopole” in the very heart of the first Growths vineyards of Beaune. The vineyard covering 3.80 ha is located on a mid slope. The “Clos des Fèves” was already known in the 14th century under the latin word “Fae”.

This vineyard is ideally located nearby the famous Montrachet and Chevalier Montrachet. It has a southeast exposure. The high proportion of clay gives to the wine a specific minerality which underlines the typicality of the Chardonnay. The vines are planted at regular distance of each other which enables deep ploughing of the soil.

Grape Variety: 100% Chardonnay
Soil: Clay and limestone

The wine is for the most part left alone, as the philosophy is one of “infusion rather than construction.” The wine is vinified 100% whole cluster to extract a deeper color and enhance the structure and aromatic complexity. The major condition is that the grapes must be perfect in terms of ripeness and condition. The reds have a perceptible style as a result: beautiful aromatics with complex spice complementing fruit on the nose and palate. Chanson also strives to maximize the preservation of fresh fruit characteristics, which is why grapes are chilled immediately on arrival in a proprietary tunnel that provides a very quick chill with no oxygen exposure. Then, Champagne-style fractional pressing is practiced to gently extract the purest juice. Malolactic fermentation takes place in barrel on the fine lees with no batonnage. Oak is used conservatively, aging for only 12 months in casks.

Tasting Notes:
Pale gold color. Floral fragrances mixed with exotic fruit and ripe pear aromas with spices. Complex and well-balanced. Taut and tight. Very pure. Elegant texture. Long finish.

Ratings & Reviews

94 Points - James Suckling:
"Aromas of lemon peel, fresh pineapple, peaches, white flowers and butter cookies. The palate is medium-bodied with a creamy texture and bright acidity that is supported by underlying power and tension. An approachable and early-drinking wine from a famed vineyard. Drink or hold." (May 2025)

91-93 Points - Jasper Morris' Inside Burgundy:
"Mid lemon yellow. The bouquet has plenty of fruit weight with some distinction as well, along with a trace of the barrel. This fills the mouth with a full ripe white fruit, well integrated acidity and good persistence – In fact the fruit keeps coming back for more at the finish. Drink from 2028-2033." (Oct 2024)

88-90 Points - Vinous Media:
"The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru is similar to the Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc insofar that it leans a little more to the richer style for the vintage. Satsuma, mango and touches of vanilla pod open the bouquet. The palate is rounded on the entry, with a lovely caressing texture, although the acidity is a notch lower than optimal. There is good weight on the finish, though again, like other white cuvées, it needs more tension and nervosité on the finish." – Neal Martin (Jan 2025)