Chateau Margaux Premier Grand Cru 1990
(Margaux, Bordeaux, France) - [RP 100] [WS 98] [ST 98] [DC 98]

About this wine:
Chateau Margaux is one of only four estates to be granted First Growth status in the famous Bordeaux classification of 1855. This famous estate dates back almost 1,000 years, and is recognized as producing one of the greatest wines in the entire world. Chateau Margaux is one of the few vineyards to have remained relatively unchanged for centuries, too: today the vineyards are almost the same size with 80 planted hectares of vines, as there were in 1700 (75 hectares). And the winery had impressive fans even then: Thomas Jefferson placed an order for Margaux in 1794 on which he wrote, “There couldn’t be a better Bordeaux bottle.”

Chateau Margaux is the only Bordeaux wine to bear the name of its appellation (making it a bit confusing). It is also one of the few billion-dollar wine businesses to be headed by a woman, Corinne Mentzelopoulos. (Her father André bought the chateau in the 1970s for just 72 million francs (about $17 million at the time). When he passed away in 1980, Corinne took over at age 27; her own daughter Alexandra is slated to succeed her when the time comes.)

Chateau Margaux vineyard is planted to 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc for the red wine grapes, divided into 80 parcels. The style of wine produced by Chateau Margaux at its best blends elegance, purity of fruit, harmony and finesse.

The harvest lasted almost a month, as the Cabernets ripened much later than the Merlot. We even interrupted the picking for 10 days at the end of September to let the Cabernet finish ripening. Luck was on our side, as the weather was exceptionally good. 1990 was the third in a run of very fine vintages, with 1988 and 1989. After the classic 1988 and the rich, opulent 1989, the 1990 immediately caused great excitement with its charm and great finesse. It is hard to believe that two years with quite similar vine growing conditions produced two wines with such different characteristics! But maybe these conditions were not as similar as they appeared. Who knows what influence a few days’ heatwave may have, or what an apparently unwelcome shower or a lengthy period of drought can do? The wines of the 1990 vintage, whether Merlot, Cabernets or Petit Verdot, were immediately outstandingly attractive, rich and tender, tight-grained but soft, with enticing fruit flavours. Today, all the aromas and flavours already mingle sweetly together into this wine, whose perfect harmony conceals a power comparable with 1989. It is enjoyable now, as it was, in fact, shortly after its bottling. It will surely continue to be so over the next twenty or thirty years. What more can we ask? (May 2010)

Ratings & Reviews

100 Points - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate:
"I had this wine both in Seoul, Korea in February, and from my cellar in December, 2008, and it was remarkable how identical the wines smelled and tasted. It offers an extraordinary aromatic display of spring flowers, camphor, sweet red and black fruits, a hint of licorice, and no evidence of its 100% new oak cask aging. Round and generous with low acidity, but an opulent, full-bodied richness that is fresh with laser-like precision, this stunning wine is just beginning to reach its plateau of full maturity, where it should remain for another three decades. A sensational effort, it is one of the legendary wines made at Chateau Margaux. " - Robert Parker (June 2009)

98 Points - Wine Spectator Magazine:
"Full-bodied, yet racy and refined, with blackberry and licorice character. Long. It keeps getting better and better. Hard not to drink now. In fact, I would, but it will age well for decades. '89/'90 Bordeaux non-blind horizontal. Drink now." –JS (Feb 28, 2005)

98 Points - Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar:
"Full ruby-red. Wonderfully perfumed nose combines redcurrant, plum, mocha, minerals and rose petal. Plush, fat and rich, with great sweetness and class. This has utterly compelling mouthfilling richness. Finishes smooth and endless, with great breadth. This wine showed fabulous potential from barrel, but this is the first truly outstanding bottle I've had. Drink 2005 through 2035." - Stephen Tanzer (Jul/Aug '02)

98 Points - Decanter:
"A brilliant wine, still star bright in colour, and full of flesh and fruit. Opens with smoky cigar notes, touches of figs, blackberries, cedar, fine tannins as well as violet and peony aromatics even at 30-plus years old. This wine took home the audience award during the 67 Pall Mall tasting, and it certainly stays with you long after the glass is finished. 100% new oak. Owner Corinne Mentzelopoulos was celebrating 10 years at the helm at this point, with Paul Pontallier just promoted to managing director, after arriving at the property in 1983." (2/21)