Cascina Baricchi "Rose delle Casasse" Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2017
(Piedmont, Italy) - [VM 95] [WS 93]

Virtually hidden in Piemonte’s rich history is the story of a forgotten cousin of Nebbiolo, called Nebbiolo Rosé. Though a component of many great Barolos and Barbarescos of the past, it suffered from tiny yields and relatively light color—hence the variety’s name. Yet, these deficiencies were more than made up for by the wines’ sensual texture and haunting perfume.

Sadly, Nebbiolo Rosé all but died out, replaced by Nebbiolo clones known for their productivity and deeper color. By the late 1970s, only a handful of producers still grew it, including two giants of the past. One was Vietti’s Alfredo Currado—in Barolo's Briacca cru—and the other was Enrico Giovannini-Moresco, whose Barbaresco Podere del Pajoré was entirely planted to Nebbiolo Rosé. Sadly, neither wine was made after 1982.

Nebbiolo Rosé has developed a cult following in recent years, thanks largely to the occasional old bottle of Giovannini-Moresco’s Barbaresco that surfaces. Yet, few modern Barolos or Barbarescos continue that rich heritage.

Fortunately, Natale Simonetta’s Cascina Barrichi has today emerged as the clone’s great champion. When Natale took over in 1989, the estate was blessed with a parcel of 100+year-old Rosé vines in the historic, but unclassified, Casasse cru. Natale slowly experimented with this variety on its own, releasing only 3 vintages of Rosé delle Casasse before 2010, but the wine’s haunting personality drew him in, and it slowly became the focus of his work.

In the cellar, Natale crushes the grapes by foot for the gentlest extraction possible. He then ferments and macerates for 30+ days, using the ultra-traditional capello sommerso for the last couple weeks. That gives the wine its firm structure. To maximize the wine’s expressiveness, Natale gives it three years aging in used 500 to 800-liter barrels, followed by bottling with a minimum of sulfur.