Domaine Berthoumieu "Cuvee Charles de Batz" Tannat-Cabernet Sauvignon 2017
(Madiran, Southwest France) - [WE 93]

The 26-hectare Domaine Berthoumieu is run by Didier Barre and is situated in the village of Viella in the northern Madiran region of southwest France. The estate has been in the family since 1850 and Didier is one of the leading makers in the region, his wines expressing the notion of terroir to perfection. 'Charles de Batz' is 90% Tannat and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon from hand harvested vines that are between 50 and 100 years old. After being completely destemmed, the Cabernet and Tannat are fermented separately in cement tanks. During this time, a bit of micro-oxygenation or microboullage takes place. The wine then goes into oak (50% new) in an underground cellar where it also undergoes malolactic fermentation. After 12 months in wood, it is blended and bottled after a very light filtration. 

Charles de Batz, incidentally, is better known as Comte d'Artagnan, one of the three musketeers.

Very ripe, rich Madiran that takes no prisoners. This wine succeeds in obtaining more fruit than tannin! The color is nearly opaque—wine doesn't get much darker than this. It displays notes of black fruit (blackcurrant and blackberry) along with just a hint of red fruit. There is a cedar-like creaminess to the oak which is extremely well-integrated. Tannins pick up on the finish but, let's face it, this is Madiran and that is to be expected. These tannins seem to dissolve when the wine is matched with richly flavored meats like leg of lamb, duck, goose or game.