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The Real Nectar of the Gods
Perfectly-Aged Sauternes for the Holidays
“FLAWLESS balance. Brilliant. Seductive. An Absolute Joy to Drink. Finishes with EPIC Length.”
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A Personal Note
Dear Artisans,
Forget mead. Had this bottle existed in ancient Greece, the gods would have called it their nectar.
Great Sauternes sits so far beyond what most people picture when they hear “dessert wine” that it has to be tasted to be believed. And one of the great ones has just reached its moment: the 2017 Château Suduiraut, 98 points from Jeb Dunnuck, in the half bottle.
James Suckling tasted it at the end of 2019 and wrote: “Better in 2025, but already a joy to taste.” It is now the end of 2026. This is the window he was waiting for.
Beauty Out Of Rot
Sauternes is Sémillon first, with a little Sauvignon Blanc and sometimes Muscadelle, all of it attacked in the vineyard by noble rot. Sémillon leads because its thin skins make it an easy target. Sauvignon Blanc brings the acidity Sémillon lacks, and the rarer Muscadelle adds perfume.
Eric Asimov, the wine critic of The New York Times, explains why making it is such a gamble: “Not only must the grapes ripen fully until near bursting with sugar, but farmers must also hope the weather attains just the right balance of humidity and autumn breezes to produce Botrytis cinerea, the fabled noble rot, whose spores attack the grapes, absorbing water, shriveling skins and reducing healthy bunches to ghastly, desiccated masses. Out of this ugliness comes rare beauty, gorgeously extravagant, honeyed wines in which sweetness is balanced with acidity. At their best, they can age for decades.”
What you taste is honeyed apricot, butterscotch, caramel, mango, ginger, marmalade and citrus, with honeysuckle and toasted baking spice behind it. Sweet, yes, but lifted by acid so it never feels heavy.
Next Door To Yquem
Château Suduiraut was ranked Premier Cru Classé in the original 1855 classification, and its vineyards border those of Château d’Yquem. Its history stretches back to the 15th century. The Duc d’Épernon destroyed the original château in the 16th century, leaving a single wing, and the Suduiraut family built the present one in the 17th. Since 1992 it has belonged to AXA, which also owns Château Pichon-Longueville in Pauillac and Château Petit-Village in Pomerol.
The 2017 is 94% Sémillon and 6% Sauvignon Blanc, and only the fruit from the last two picks made it into the Grand Vin, according to Antonio Galloni. It spent 18 months in oak, half new and half one year old.
Not Just For Dessert
Here is the counter-intuitive part. Sauternes is rarely at its best next to dessert, because sugar against sugar dulls both. Pour it with salty, spicy or rich food and it comes alive.
Blue cheese and foie gras are the classics. It is just as good with Sichuan food, anything with orange or mandarin, Serrano and Parma ham, Peking duck, and even fried food. On the Thanksgiving table, put it next to the cheese board, not the pie.
And the half bottle is the smart format: open one, keep it in the fridge, and enjoy a small glass every evening through the week.
Three More, Perfectly Aged
Below the Suduiraut are two Barsac First Growths in half bottles with years of age on them: the 2005 Climens, 100 points from Owen Bargreen, and the 2011 Coutet, 97 from Wine Spectator.
And for the gift that ends all gift lists, the 2023 Château d’Yquem, with four 100-point scores, in both sizes.
Cheers,
James Tran
Artisan Wine & Spirits
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What The Drinkers Say
CellarTracker notes on the 2017 Suduiraut, from barrel in 2018 to bottle last December.
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Why This Matters
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Eight scores of 94 or better. Jeb Dunnuck 98 on the Suduiraut; Lisa Perrotti-Brown, Vinous, James Suckling and Jeff Leve all at 97 or higher. |
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Aged and ready now. The 2017, 2011 and 2005 have had the years in bottle that young Sauternes needs. |
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Two perfect-score wines. Climens 2005 with Owen Bargreen’s 100, and d’Yquem 2023 with four 100s. |
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Half bottles for the holidays. Every aged bottle here is a 375 mL, from $49.99. |
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The Four Sauternes At A Glance
Every score, every price, in the order they appear below.
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The Lead · Sauternes · 375 mL
2017 Château Suduiraut. Yquem’s Neighbor.
Jeb Dunnuck, 98: “flawless balance, and just fabulous purity of fruit.”
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Jeb Dunnuck 98Premier Cru Classé 1855375 mL Half Bottle
Château Suduiraut Sauternes 2017
Sauternes · Bordeaux · 375 mL Half Bottle
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98
Jeb Dunnuck
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97+
Wine Independent
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97
Vinous
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97
James Suckling
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97
Jeff Leve
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95
Wine Advocate
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95
Wine Enthusiast
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94
Wine Spectator
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Eight critics, every score 94 or higher, and the same words keep coming back: flawless balance, seductive creaminess, epic length. Wine Spectator counted 5,833 cases and drinks it through 2040, so there is no hurry, but it is singing now.
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Jeb Dunnuck
98 Points
It has rocking botrytis notes of honeyed citrus, orange blossom, white flowers, and caramelized peach. These carry to a full-bodied, beautifully pure, precise Sauternes that has good acidity, flawless balance, and just fabulous purity of fruit. It's a brilliant Sauternes. February 2020
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The Wine Independent · Lisa Perrotti-Brown
97+ Points
It needs a little coaxing before releasing a full array of gregarious grapefruit, honeyed peaches, and lemon curd inspired scents, followed by hints of sea spray, lime blossoms, yuzu, and coriander seed. The palate is super-intense, offering tight-knit citrus and stone fruit layers with a racy backbone of freshness and seductive creaminess, finishing with epic length. December 2022
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Vinous · Antonio Galloni
97 Points
Just as impressive as it was in barrel, the 2017 Suduiraut is positively dazzling. Pineapple, orange peel, crême brulée, white flowers, honey, apricot and hazelnut are some of the many nuances that develop in the glass. Rich and heady, yet also wonderfully vibrant, the 2017 is developing into a stunning Suduiraut. … Only the fruit from the last two picks made it into the Grand Vin. March 2020
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James Suckling
97 Points
"Yum. Aromas of orange blossom, lemon curd, dried apricot and cooked pears fill the glass. It’s full-bodied and very sweet, yet tangy and lively from the vibrant acidity. Extremely long on the finish. Better in 2025, but already a joy to taste. (Dec 2019) December 2019
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Wine Advocate · Yohan Castaing
95 Points
More floral and elegantly perfumed than its 2015 and 2016 counterparts, the 2017 Suduiraut exhales aromas of white flowers, peaches, plums and ripe orchard fruits. Medium to full-bodied, round and enveloping with a delicate, fleshy core of fruit, it’s perfectly balanced with a stunning "rôti," the consequence of noble rot. It concludes with a long, penetrating and mineral-laden finish, showcasing the wine's youthful expressiveness. June 2024
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Wine Enthusiast · Roger Voss
95 Points
Barrel Sample. Very concentrated, this is a great wine with rich intensity and balancing acidity. Honey and lemon flavors with a dry core of botrytis give the wine great balance as well as great potential for aging. Drink from 2025. April 2018
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Wine Spectator · James Molesworth
94 Points
This is a step apart from the pack, featuring a range of papaya and mango fruit typical for the vintage, augmented by white peach, nectarine and Anjou pear flavors. Shows a gorgeous mouthfeel from start to finish, with light jasmine and orange blossom notes infused throughout. Ends with a seductive finish of warmed coconut and piecrust. Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now through 2040. 5,833 cases made. March 2020
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| Elsewhere: $65.00 |
| Our Price |
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$49.99 / bottle
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Barsac · 375 mL
2005 Château Climens. The Lord Of Barsac.
Owen Bargreen, 100: “absolutely scintillating to enjoy now.”
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Owen Bargreen 100100% Sémillon375 mL Half Bottle
Château Climens Barsac 2005
Barsac · Sauternes · Bordeaux · 375 mL Half Bottle
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100
Owen Bargreen
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97
Wine Advocate
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95
Wine Spectator
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94+
Vinous
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Climens is known as the Lord of Barsac. Its history dates to the 16th century, and only six families have owned it since. It is made from Sémillon alone, on limestone. The 2005 is now 21 years old, and when Owen Bargreen tasted it last November he called it absolutely scintillating to enjoy now, with a really long life still ahead.
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Owen Bargreen
100 Points
A resounding success from this great vintage, the 2005 Chateau Climens is a world-class wine that is weightless, highly complex and absolutely scintillating to enjoy now. The gorgeous bouquet beings you back to the glass, offering intense tropical fruits alongside vanilla creme brûlée, pineapple upside down cake and shades of Meyer lemon cream. The palate is seamless and smooth, with plenty of stony minerals that meld well with passion fruit, bananas foster and toasted macadamia nut flavors. Showing beautiful weight and intensity, this has a really long life ahead of it. Drink 2024-2050 November 2025
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Wine Advocate · Neal Martin
97 Points
Tasted blind at the 10-Year On Tasting in Sauternes. The 2005 Château Climens just soars from the glass with layers of clear honey, marmalade, nectarine and minerals all beautifully carved. The palate is medium-bodied with fresh, vibrant honeyed fruit that builds and builds in the mouth in tandem with a killer line of acidity. Even though it is a convincing, great Climens, you also have the impression that it is only just beginning to show what it is capable of. Bérénice Lurton and her team excelled in this vintage and it comes strongly recommended. June 2015
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Wine Spectator
95 Points
Toffee, dried lemon rind and tropical fruit on the nose. Full-bodied and very sweet, with a dense palate of candied fruit and a long, sweet finish. Very concentrated. The botrytis spice creeps up on the finish. … 2,300 cases made. March 2008
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Vinous · Stephen Tanzer
94+ Points
Good full golden-yellow. Musky, very fresh aromas of crystallized citrus peel, minerals and toasted bread. The palate offers incredible sappy concentration and a saline aspect, not to mention a penetrating quality rare for this fruit-driven year. In fact, this begins almost light, then builds inexorably toward the back, finishing with a tactile impression of extract and an extraordinary sweetness that almost reminded me of the Suduiraut that I tasted just before it. Should go on for decades. July 2008
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| Elsewhere: $200.00 |
| Our Price |
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$149.99 / bottle
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Barsac · First Growth · 375 mL
2011 Château Coutet. Named For The Knife.
Wine Spectator, 97: “This just makes you feel special when you drink it.”
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Wine Spectator 97Enthusiast 96375 mL Half Bottle
Château Coutet Barsac 2011
Barsac · Sauternes · Bordeaux · 375 mL Half Bottle
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97
Wine Spectator
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96
Wine Enthusiast
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A Barsac First Growth, once owned by the Lur-Saluces family. The property housed Château d’Yquem’s horse stables, later turned into a 110-meter cellar, the longest in the appellation, and Thomas Jefferson celebrated Coutet as the best Sauternes from Barsac during his years as ambassador to France. The name comes from the Gascon word for knife, for the fresh, crisp cut that is the estate’s signature. In 2011 the first noble-rot berries appeared in August, and the wine has power and polish to show for it.
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Wine Spectator · James Molesworth
97 Points
White peach, pineapple, white ginger, orange zest and green fig notes are clear and racy, while green almond, brioche, pear and yellow apple details wait in reserve. Offers stunning range and polish, showing terrific energy and cut on the finish. This just makes you feel special when you drink it. An estate that has been rising steadily for a while now. Best from 2016 through 2035. 2,915 cases made. March 2014
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Wine Enthusiast · Roger Voss
96 Points
Well balanced, this gorgeous ripe wine is packed full of fresh yellow fruits, ripe oranges and lemon. The fruit counterpoints the generous, dense structure, offering the dry core of botrytis. Acidity gives a line of freshness at the end. Drink from 2020. May 2015
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Decanter · Stephen Brook
95 Points
Medium gold. The nose has opened up impressively, with sumptuous aromas of mandarins, apricot and pineapple. The attack is intense and racy thanks to the vibrant acidity, and shows little sign of evolution. It's very sweet and concentrated, but there's no heaviness thanks to the acidity and the balance of the wine. The oak is well integrated and the finish is as focused and pure as the attack. Very long. (Drink between 2021-2040) May 2021
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Vinous · Ian D’Agata
95 Points
Bright golden yellow. Ripe tropical fruit, peach, marzipan and honey on the captivating nose, complicated by ample botrytis of crystalline purity. Big, dense and suave on the palate, with rich, ripe peach and apricot flavors lifted by a bright floral note. Finishes very long and creamy, with hints of earth and herbs. With 6 g/l total acidity and 155 g/l residual sugar, this marvelously balanced wine magically combines power and refinement. Another great Coutet in the making. June 2014
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| Elsewhere: $80.00 |
| Our Price |
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$59.99 / bottle
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The Crown · Sauternes
2023 Château d’Yquem. Four Perfect Scores.
The gift that ends all gift lists. In 750 mL and 375 mL.
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Premier Cru SupérieurFour 100-Point Scores750 mL & 375 mL
Château d’Yquem 2023
Sauternes · Bordeaux · 750 mL & 375 mL
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100
Wine Advocate
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100
James Suckling
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100
Jane Anson
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100
The Wine Palate
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99
Vinous
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99
Jeff Leve
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The only Premier Cru Supérieur of 1855, and the young one in this lineup. James Suckling: “I can’t get over how wonderful this is now, but it can age forever.” Every review is below, highest score first.
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Wine Advocate · Yohan Castaing
100 Points
The 2023 d’Yquem ranks among the finest wines bottled here under Lorenzo Pasquini’s direction. It unfurls from the glass with a complex, vibrant and remarkably pure bouquet of pineapple, guava, mango, confit citrus, beeswax and spices. Full-bodied, dense and concentrated, it combines formidable depth with perfectly judged control, built around a fleshy core of fruit, framed by lively acidity and a crystalline texture and culminating in an endless, refined and ethereal finish. Yquem’s natural power is here masterfully harnessed by the vintage’s freshness and tension, revealing an aesthetic of precision and vibrancy encountered only in the estate’s greatest years… Drink: 2026-2076. March 2026
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James Suckling
100 Points
Perfect aromas carry through to every milliliter of this wine, showing intense orange peel, honey, butterscotch, saffron, smoke and peat, with hints of coffee and dried apples. Full-bodied but weightless and silky, with an excellent balance of fruit, sweetness and spices. Some peanut brittle, dried oranges and lemons at the end. I can’t get over how wonderful this is now, but it can age forever. Drink or hold. December 2025
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Jane Anson · Inside Bordeaux
100 Points
Power, freshness, depth, after the extremes of 2021 and 2022, this walks the line between the two, exceptional, mandarin, quince, mirabelle plums, white truffle, fresh fruit and confit fruit, a vibration of slate and steel, opulent but slices closed on the finish. The botrytis came early and quickly in 2023. Drink: 2026-2050. February 2026
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The Wine Palate · Lisa Perrotti-Brown
100 Points
The pale gold colored 2023 d’Yquem hits the ground running with vibrant notes of honey-drizzled peaches, juicy pears, and fresh mangoes, leading to a fragrant, highly nuanced undercurrent, including notions of beeswax, chamomile blossoms, and fresh ginger, with a waft of allspice. The rich, seductive, decadently flamboyant palate immediately satisfies with rich orchard and tropical fruit layers, but manages to hold back with tantalizing nuances of floral and mineral notes, electrified by a racy backbone, finishing with epic length and a whispery promise of more stories to tell future generations. Monumental… Drinking Window: 2027-2077.
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Vinous · Neal Martin
99 Points
The nose is so seductive that it should come with a warning sticker. Pure and mellow, it offers beguiling scents of wild honey, quince jelly, almond shavings and that signature hint of saffron destined to accentuate with age… The palate has exquisite balance and poise that belies the depth of this Yquem… It is really the umami sensation that defines the 2023, how it caresses, almost soothes the grateful taste buds, vanilla and flecks of white chocolate lingering on the aftertaste… If the 2023 does have a fault, it’s that it is so flattering in its flush of youth that it will be difficult to resist. Sublime. Drink: 2030-2090. March 2026
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Jeff Leve · The Wine Cellar Insider
99 Points
The perfume bursts with a bouquet of flowers, candied lemon peels, pineapple, white peach, orange, mango, vanilla, saffron, and anise. It is a lively, bright, energetic vintage for Chateau d’Yquem. Rich, intense, opulent, sweet, and palate-coating, yet all of that is balanced by its explosive, racy acidity that provides lift, energy, and length. The finish begins slowly, building, intensifying, and expanding, hitting all four sides of your palate with its unique spicy character and its counterbalancing blend of perfectly ripe, sweet tropical fruits and refreshing acidity… In short, 2023 Château d’Yquem ROCKS! Drink from 2030-2100. March 2026
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| Estate |
Château d’Yquem, Sauternes (Premier Cru Supérieur, 1855) |
| Blend |
70% Sémillon, 30% Sauvignon Blanc |
| Aging |
100% new oak |
| Drink |
Now (James Suckling) to 2100 (Jeff Leve) |
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750 mL Bottle
Elsewhere: $700.00
$424.99
(Comes in Wood 3-Pack · order any qty you desire)
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375 mL Half Bottle
Elsewhere: $290.00
$224.99
(Comes in Wood 6-Pack · order any qty you desire)
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The Bottom Line
Pour it with the cheese, not the pie.
The 2017 Suduiraut at $49.99 is the bottle to open this holiday season: 98 points, nine years on, and in a half bottle that keeps all week in the fridge.
For the Sauternes lover on your list, the 2005 Climens at $149.99 and the 2011 Coutet at $59.99 are aged and ready. And for the one person who deserves the best, d’Yquem 2023 at $424.99 for the 750 mL or $224.99 for the half.
Cheers,
James Tran
Artisan Wine & Spirits
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And The Rest Of The Cellar
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