2x 97pt "Montrachet of Italy MASTERPIECE. Best Ever." $79.99 vs $21,900
The 2023 Cervaro della Sala earns 97 points from Wine Advocate — matching the Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet and Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne. At $79.99, it costs roughly 1/11th the price of the cheapest wine on this list. That gap is what Monica Larner is calling out when she writes "reminiscent of the great whites of Burgundy."
|
WHY THIS WINE IS EXTRAORDINARY Italy Has Never Made a White Wine
| ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
THE 2023 VINTAGE AT CASTELLO DELLA SALA The 2023 Cervaro della Sala is the result of a deliberate winemaking reinvention. As Monica Larner notes in her 97-point Wine Advocate review (November 2025): "the most impressive aspect of the Castello della Sala ethos is its ability to reinvent itself." For this vintage, Renzo Cotarella's team moved away from 500-litre barrels in favor of larger foudre, eliminated bâtonnage entirely, and further reduced the Grechetto component (now 5–10% of the blend, down from historical norms) to avoid any rustic edges from the indigenous grape. The result is a wine of brilliant precision: tension, energy, and what James Suckling calls "amazing balance in this vintage." Vinous's Eric Guido describes it as "pure elegance in the glass," with "silken textures" and "a resonance of mineral-infused apricots." Wine Spectator's Alison Napjus notes "a sense of finesse as the profile waltzes across the palate." Three different critics. The same word: elegance. The 2023 was harvested at night and at dawn, cold-macerated, and fermented in new French oak with part of the Chardonnay completing malolactic fermentation while the Grechetto was held back for energy and verve. The wine then rested in foudre on the fine lees before bottle aging in the historic cellars of the 14th-century Castello della Sala. Per Wine Spectator: 3,000 cases imported. |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
SIX REASONS TO ACT NOW Why This Bottle Matters
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
THE ARTISAN INSIDER VERDICT This Is the White Wine Italy Has Always
|
|
Cervaro della Sala was born from a 1985 trip to Burgundy. It was engineered to do what no Italian white had ever done — achieve the complexity, longevity, and gravitas of a Grand Cru Chardonnay while remaining unmistakably Italian. The 2023 marks Renzo Cotarella's most deliberate reinvention to date: larger foudre instead of barriques, no bâtonnage, even less Grechetto. The result is the most precise, energetic Cervaro I have ever tasted. At 97 points from Wine Advocate, 97 from James Suckling, and $79.99 — $20 below the national average — it is the most straightforward recommendation we have made this year. — James Tran, Artisan Wine & Spirits |
WHAT YOU'D PAY AT A RESTAURANT
The Same Bottle. Three Very Different Prices.
| Where | Price | Note |
| Artisan Wine & Spirits | $79.99 | Among the lowest in the country. |
| Average U.S. Retail | ~$100 | Standard retail price nationwide. |
| Fine Italian Restaurant (Bay Area) | $200–$300 | Standard 2.5–3× markup at Acquerello, Perbacco, Birdsong. |
|
97 WA · JS |
1350 YEAR CASTELLO |
2036 DRINK THROUGH |
$79.99 ARTISAN PRICE |
THE WINEMAKER — RENZO COTARELLA
The Man Who Invented the Category — and Spent 40 Years Perfecting It.
Renzo Cotarella joined the Castello della Sala in 1979 at the age of 25. After the Burgundy trip with Piero Antinori, he spent two years developing the protocol for Cervaro della Sala — the only Italian white wine to undergo both malolactic fermentation and aging in new French oak barriques. It was a statement: Italian white wine did not have to be simple, early-drinking, or regional. It could aspire to greatness.
Today, Cotarella oversees a program that has earned him recognition as one of Italy's greatest white winemakers. The Antinori family — in wine since 1385, one of the oldest wine dynasties in the world — now led by daughters Albiera, Allegra, and Alessia, have continued to invest in Castello della Sala as the crown of their white wine program.
The 2023 Cervaro is the 38th vintage. At 97 points from Wine Advocate — with Monica Larner calling it "the best Cervaro della Sala I have tasted" — it is the finest statement the wine has ever made.
THE VINEYARD — CASTELLO DELLA SALA, UMBRIA
The medieval castle of Castello della Sala was built in 1350 in the Orvieto hills of Umbria. The 600-hectare estate, with 229 hectares under vine, sits at elevations ranging from 220 to 470 metres on clay and limestone soils rich in marine fossils — the geological signature of ancient seabeds that once covered central Italy.
The Grechetto blended into Cervaro della Sala is not an afterthought. It is the wine's identity. Fermented separately in stainless steel to preserve its native acidity and aromatic precision, then assembled with the barrel-fermented Chardonnay before the final 10 months of bottle rest in the castle's centuries-old cellars.
PERFECT PAIRINGS
What to Serve with This Wine
Chardonnay + Grechetto with mineral tension and ripe pit fruit — it demands food with substance.
|
|
|
CRITICAL CONSENSUS — FOUR AUTHORITIES. ONE VERDICT.
WA 97 · JS 97 · Vinous 95 · Wine Spectator 93. Italy's Greatest White Wine.
|
97 ★ "THE BEST CERVARO DELLA SALA I HAVE TASTED" "The most impressive aspect of the Castello della Sala ethos is its ability to reinvent itself. This latest edition of Umbria's headline white is a true delight. Renzo Cotarella and his team have created an Italian masterpiece that is reminiscent of the great whites of Burgundy. The 2023 Cervaro della Sala opens to an elegantly reductive note of flint or crushed granite before sliding gracefully into silky fruit sensations, breakfast pastry and crème fraîche. It offers carefully balanced richness and textural importance. Winemaking is moving away from 500-liter barrels to embrace larger foudre. No bâtonnage is implemented. The wine is mostly Chardonnay, with a smaller part (between 5% and 10%, depending on the vintage) of Grechetto that has been further reduced in order to avoid any rustic tones from the Italian grape. Throughout its many reinventions, this is the best Cervaro della Sala I have tasted." MONICA LARNER — ROBERT PARKER WINE ADVOCATE · NOV 2025 |
|
97 ★ "CLASSIC BURGUNDIAN STYLE. AMAZING BALANCE." "Classic Burgundian style. On the nose white chocolate, pink grapefruit, lemon zest and white flowers. Full-bodied, it shows weight, vibrancy and tension, with a silky texture and a salted citrus finish. Amazing balance in this vintage, with lemon peel bitterness in the aftertaste adding an extra dimension. Drink or hold." JAMES SUCKLING · MAY 2025 |
|
95 ★ "PURE ELEGANCE IN THE GLASS" "Youthfully coy, the 2023 Cervaro della Sala blows off an air of smoky reduction to reveal depths of crushed yellow apples, sesame seeds, pine shavings and nuances of vanilla custard. This is pure elegance in the glass, as silken textures envelop the palate. A bump of residual acidity maintains energy throughout, even as the 2023 tapers off tannic and potent, with a resonance of mineral-infused apricots. This is a superb rendition of Cervaro della Sala." ERIC GUIDO — VINOUS · OCT 2024 |
|
93 ★ "TENSION, FOCUS, AND FINESSE · DRINK THROUGH 2036" "A vibrant white, with pleasing buoyancy to the acidity as it carries a finely woven range of poached apricot, toasted hazelnut, passion fruit and persimmon, with accents of vanilla, lime blossoms and mineral. There's good tension and focus but also a sense of finesse as the profile waltzes across the palate and expands on the lasting, well-spiced finish. Chardonnay and Grechetto. Drink now through 2036. 3,000 cases imported." ALISON NAPJUS — WINE SPECTATOR · FEB 2026 |
TWO QUESTIONS COLLECTORS ASK
Q: If this is 97 points, why isn't it $500?
Because it doesn't have a Burgundy appellation, and the market hasn't fully priced in the score. Cervaro della Sala is Umbria IGT — "Indicazione Geografica Tipica," Italy's broad classification for wines that fall outside DOC/DOCG rules. There's no grand cru classification system, no village hierarchy, no centuries of price-setting precedent the way Montrachet has. What there is: 97 points from Wine Advocate ("the best Cervaro della Sala I have tasted"), 97 from James Suckling, a 40-year track record as Italy's most acclaimed white wine, and a $79.99 price tag. The market will catch up.
Q: Should I drink it now or cellar it?
Both. Wine Spectator confirms a drinking window through 2036 — thirteen years of runway. Vinous calls the 2023 "youthfully coy" with energy that "maintains throughout," meaning the wine will reward both early opening and longer cellaring. The safe answer: buy two. Open one in 2026 with good food — the silken texture and salted citrus finish are remarkable now. Lay the other down for 5 years and see what the foudre-aged 2023 becomes when it grows up. See which conversation you prefer.
ANTINORI · CERVARO DELLA SALA 2023 · UMBRIA IGT
97 Points × 2. Italy's Greatest White.
"The Best Cervaro I Have Tasted." $79.99.
Wine Advocate's Monica Larner: "the best Cervaro della Sala I have tasted." James Suckling: "classic Burgundian style." Vinous: "pure elegance in the glass." Wine Spectator: "drink through 2036." Four critics, 93–97 points. One price. $20 below retail. The comparison to the great whites of Burgundy starts and ends here.
Elsewhere: $100.00
$79.99
| PURCHASE NOW AT ARTISAN.WINE |
Cheers,
— James Tran
Chat · sales@artisan.wine · Text 650-880-3553 · Call 650-917-8080
ARTISAN WINE · ARTISAN.WINE
2495 Old Middlefield Way · Mountain View, CA 94043
Leave a comment