Domaine de Montille Le Clos du Chateau Bourgogne Blanc 2021
(Burgundy, France) 750mL

About the Domaine:
Domaine de Montille is not only one of the greatest domaines in Burgundy, but one of the greatest domaines in France. With a family heritage that can be traced back to the 17th century and a winemaking heritage rooted in Burgundy since 1750, the de Montilles have become synonymous with their hometown of Volnay. Over the centuries the domaine has seen its fair share of feast and famine. While the original property boasted 12 hectares of vines along the famed Côte d’Or, years of selling off parcels had reduced the family holdings to a mere three hectares. It wasn’t until Hubert de Montille took over in 1947 that the estate started its decades-long path back to glory. Although a trained lawyer like his father, Hubert could not deny his love of wine, so he practiced both professions for almost 50 years. In an era when 90 percent of the region’s crop was being sold off to négociants, Hubert took a stand against the commercially styled wines that were in vogue to make terroir-driven wines instead.

Hubert’s son, Étienne, joined the domaine in 1983, took control of the cellars in 1990, and by 1995, he was co-managing alongside his father. It was that same year that the de Montilles started the slow conversion of the estate to organic farming—a choice which took their old-school “terroirisme” to a whole new level. In 2005, they began implementing biodynamic principles, and in 2012, they earned their official organic certification. In 2006, Hubert’s equally accomplished daughter Alix joined as the winemaker for whites. Gifted businesspeople and vignerons like their father, Étienne and Alix ventured into parallel pastures: in 2003, they also launched Deux Montilles Sœur & Frère, a small négociant, and in 2012, they bought the Château de Puligny-Montrachet which Étienne had been directing since 2001. Throughout their tenure, Hubert and his children have worked hard to expand the family holdings parcel by parcel. Thanks to their efforts, Domaine de Montille now consists of 20 hectares of land in 20 appellations—with a staggering 75% in premier cru and grand cru vineyards throughout the Côte d’Or.

About the Wine:
100% Chardonnay from the walled vineyard right in front of the Château inside the village of Puligny-Montrachet, this over-achieving Bourgogne Blanc is stellar year in and year out. It definitely shows the floral and mineral notes in the nose that make the village famous. Good length and buttery, citrus fruit make this a great wine at any price, but this “little” wine from an estate with an embarrassing array of riches can stand up to the best of them.

Ratings and Reviews: 

Jancis Robinson:
"Nice tension and lift here. Some ethereal quality that is very welcome. Far from skinny; far from fat. Just right! But not for the long term.” (Jan 2023)